Retinoids are often celebrated as the crown jewel of skincare ingredients—praised for helping to visibly reduce fine lines, improve uneven tone, and encourage smoother, firmer-looking skin.
But here’s what doesn’t get said enough: stronger doesn’t always mean smarter—especially for those with delicate, maturing skin. If you’ve ever tried a retinoid and ended up with red, flaky, irritated skin, you’ve seen what happens when power overshadows consistency.
Think of retinoids like alcohol: 100-proof liquor might be most potent, but a simple cocktail is much better tolerated.
How Retinoids Work
Cosmetic retinoids need to be converted into retinoic acid—the active form that binds to retinoid receptors in your skin in order to work. The more steps required, the gentler (and slower) the process—and often, that’s a good thing.
Why Slower Often Wins
The issue with jumping to the strongest option? Irritation—dryness, stinging, peeling. And once that happens, most people stop using it altogether. And a product that sits untouched on your shelf doesn’t do your skin any favours.
That’s why the “low and slow” approach is not just kinder—it’s often more effective for long-term use. Gentle derivatives like retinyl acetate allow your skin to adapt gradually, supporting consistency. Over time, that regular use can help deliver visible improvements.
A Smarter Skincare Strategy
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Start with a retinyl ester (like retinyl acetate) 2–3 nights per week.
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Once your skin adjusts, increase frequency to 5-6 nights per week for more noticeable visible benefits.
- To help reduce irritation, try the “moisturizer sandwich” method: apply moisturizer → then retinoid → then another layer of moisturizer. Use retinoids at night, and always pair with daily SPF.
Bottom Line
When it comes to retinoids, tolerability = results. A gentle formula that you stick with is far more valuable than a harsh one you abandon. The version that works for you—not against you—is the one that helps keep your skin looking healthy, glowing, and resilient.